This is what happens when a mildly un-hinged former Marine, Ivy Leaguer, and university professor bags it all for a surfboard and a sleeping bag in the back of an ancient pickup truck just to follow the waves.
Wednesday, August 07, 2013
Not much to say. Surf, rinse, eat, read, run, surf, rinse, eat, sleep. Yes, that's the whole day. Yesterday, too. Maybe tomorrow.
