It's been awhile since I've written about either surfing or life.  The former is easier to discuss than the latter, so we'll limit the post to that.

The waves have been running to about 4 feet consistently during the day, which is just right for me.  The locals aren't threatened by an old man and, in fact, have been getting chatty with me in the mornings.  I've found a bar at which to hang out for sports viewing.  As it is convivial and not part of some chain that promotes either sports nerdiness or cleavage, it's particularly nice.

I've re-established my daily exercise routine and lost the weight I'd gained.  I still can't crack the plateau I've been on since the summer, but it's no big deal.  To do so, I would probably have to trim aspects of my diet and do a complete elimination of carbs, alcohol, diet soda, and other staples of my American diet.  Until my meals are limited either by a hospital or a nursing home, or a coma, I'll still sneak away from the macrobiotic life from time to time.

For example, this afternoon, I'm on my bike over to the bar to watch whatever game is on the big, giant TV, especially as the waves are below two feet today.  Yep, that's my life now.  I wouldn't have it any other way, either.