This is what happens when a mildly un-hinged former Marine, Ivy Leaguer, and university professor bags it all for a surfboard and a sleeping bag in the back of an ancient pickup truck just to follow the waves.
Friday, December 20, 2013
Rule 5 Friday: Why I surf
Another of my generation. We hold up pretty well, don't we? I mean, you should see me in a Speedo.
